THE WOODLANDS. Romantic, elegant evenings are a given at this north Houston establishment, and diners regularly make their way to The Woodlands for incredible northern Italian cuisine. Whet your appetite with calamari or beef carpaccio before sampling capellini with crawfish, lobster risotto, or a main course centered on seafood, steak, chicken, or veal. Among the options are seared sea bass with sweet parsnips, veal piccata, a NY strip, and seared rainbow trout with sea scallops and grappa lime citrus jus. The second-floor piano lounge is a weekend mainstay for drinks and dancing.

WEST UNIVERSITY. Beautifully appointed with gilt, crystal, lace, and fresh flowers, this romantic restaurant is perfect for engagements, anniversaries, and any occasion that calls for gracious dining. The menu has a Continental flair, featuring rich, well-composed dishes like veal chops and fresh fish with sumptuous sauces. Even side dishes are artistically presented for a unified effect. Superb wines and pastries contribute to the allure, as do servers who have an uncanny sense of knowing just what you need from moment to moment.

WEST HOUSTON. At Goode Co., owners Jim and Levi Goode have established an upscale, family-friendly restaurant adorned with all things nautical, from rusty boat propellers and anchors to buoys and Gulf-themed black-and-white photographs. The impressive menu, which features traditional Gulf favorites with international flair, includes spicy crawfish bisque, oven-roasted oysters, and Chilean sea bass. Regulars also rave about the ceviche, served in a sundae glass with your choice of shrimp, crab, or crawfish.

RIVER OAKS. A charming dining room with stained glass accents and self-proclaimed "funky gothic" decor welcomes enthusiastic guests to this appealing bistro. Sophistication and comfort mix in the setting and in the food, which is rustic, flavorful, and impeccably prepared. Steak frites is a natural classic, as are roasted chicken with mushroom risotto, grilled ahi tuna, cider-glazed pork chop, and tagliatelle with slow-braised lamb. Desserts keep up the creative theme, and the international wine list is delightfully well priced. A wonderful neighborhood institution.

GALLERIA. This national chain opened its Houston restaurant in 1978, and its fine reputation for delicious steaks and seafood hasn't flagged at all in the interim ­ and neither has its unmistakable Southern charm. Featured dishes include a mammoth, 36-ounce New York strip for two, jumbo Maine lobster, veal Française, broiled crab cakes, swordfish, and clams and shrimp Posillipo. Providing complements are the wine list's many Californian and European labels. N.B. After work, the five o'clock crowd tends to gather in the cool bar area, which showcases caricatures by "Jolly" Bill Steinke.