NORTH HOUSTON. Characterized as a crab shack, Blue Water is pleasantly relaxed and as casual as they come. Folks often stop in to linger over fresh seafood, and they drive in especially for spicy (seasonal) crawfish. You'll also discover garlicky Dungeness crabs, blueshell crabs, and delicious oysters, both raw and mesquite-roasted. If you're interested in more put-together fare, they serve a fisherman's platter and boiled dinners. TVs let you catch up with the world as you while away a few hours, and there's no better place to sit than at a picnic table on the porch. Waits are not unknown.

CLEAR LAKE. This cheery Mediterranean-style café is family-owned and family-operated, and the two Caprisian brothers in charge make special efforts to see that patrons have a wonderful time. Although the intimate tables may be arranged a bit closely, delicious homestyle pasta dishes more than make up for any perceived loss of privacy. Fresh-from-the-Gulf seafood is the specialty and has been for almost 20 years. Friendly, professional service adds to the experience, and reasonable prices make Frenchie's a favorite. Space is limited, so expect long lines on weekends.

SHARPSTOWN. Elegant Fung's has a built-in culinary niche with its Hong Kong-style preparation of impossibly fresh seafood. That's not to say that the kitchen is complacent. Rather, chefs go to great lengths to make sure that everything is of the highest quality, just as you ordered. The menu features more than 400 options, so look around a bit before you choose. Items you might consider include green mussels with black bean sauce, roast duck, sesame jellyfish, and squid with sate sauce. Less adventurous diners are pleased by customary beef, chicken, and pork dishes, along with a variety of noodle and rice options. Ideal for entertaining clients or special guests.

WEST HOUSTON. At Goode Co., owners Jim and Levi Goode have established an upscale, family-friendly restaurant adorned with all things nautical, from rusty boat propellers and anchors to buoys and Gulf-themed black-and-white photographs. The impressive menu, which features traditional Gulf favorites with international flair, includes spicy crawfish bisque, oven-roasted oysters, and Chilean sea bass. Regulars also rave about the ceviche, served in a sundae glass with your choice of shrimp, crab, or crawfish.

DOWNTOWN. Oft-frequented by business folks, this appealing restaurant welcomes young and old, visitor and regular. The kitchen's focus is seafood with a Creole slant, but versatility is evident in dishes that also incorporate global influences. Finding their way into the mix are jerk catfish, Asian tuna, fried oysters, bacon-wrapped stuffed shrimp, and grilled salmon with kalamata olives and feta cheese. Meat-eaters take pleasure in grilled rib-eyes, Napa Valley duck salad, and chicken Marsala. The lively bar is a destination in and of itself.